New Zealand South

CHRISTCHURCH

The February 2011 earthquake rattled Christchurch far harder than I realized. I flew in there not planning to stay long. The city sits out on a plain and didn't get much dap from the guide books as far as things to do. The earthquake compounded the problem. 19 months later, most of the central business district still lies in the "red zone", coordined off from traffic and pedestrians as they attempt to rebuild. Businesses and homes still sit abandoned everywhere. Hard to find a place to even eat sometimes.

Despite the current ghost town feel, Christchurch seems primed to emerge from all of this for the better. The shipping container laden replacement zone is a cool central hub and the surprisingly powerful earthquake section of the Canterbury Museum details the future goals and citizen-suggested plans for a green, progressive city. Don't sleep on Christchurch (Also literally hard to sleep there. They've had 10,000 + aftershocks since the initial September 2010 quake. I felt one of them at 4am. They had one the day before I arrived too. Eeek!)

My time there was spent ambling around the incredibly impressive city park, with transplanted sequoias and other towering trees. I checked out the revitalization efforts, the Ice Fest, and generally just walked around, checking shit out. If you visit New Zealand in the future, definitely check in on Christchurch's progress. I think you'll enjoy it.......so long as another big earthquake doesn't send it into the sea.

KAIKOURA

Took the Nakedbus ("We strip down the cost of travel") two hours north to beautiful Kaikoura. Here ocean views combine with mountains that jut right up to the coast for truly stunning scenery. Took a hike around the peninsula twice actually, at high tide up on the cliffs, and at low tide down along the shore to get closer to the seals (and the strafing seagulls who seemed mad at me).

All under water my first hike.

He did not want me any closer.

The main draw to Kaikoura is marine mammal viewing, something about a deep, warm canyon close to shore good for feeding. I've never seen a wild whale, so I took the tour. We only saw one Sperm whale and a few dolphins on a gray day. I learned I needed a better camera (more on that below) and that about 20% of the boat lacked sturdy sea legs. There were a few moments vaguely reminiscent of the pie contest scene in Stand By Me. Still a pretty fun afternoon.

Due to limited bus schedules and pure logistics, I abandoned my hope of heading north to Abel Tasman National Park and instead returned to Christchurch for a day of laundry, bookings, and other mundacities before linking up with my friend Ashley from Chicago. We then headed straight south to Queenstown.

QUEENSTOWN

They basically hand you a Mountain Dew as you step off the bus into Queenstown. The resort city presents itself as a Mecca of extreme sports. Just ascending the first hill on my lone hike, I passed zip-line, luge, skiing, bungee, parasail, and helicopter tour options as well as the most insane downhill mountain biking I've ever seen. Ashley and I chose the jet-boat for our first foray, blasting through canyons at 80 km/h and doing several 360s. Good times.

The next day, we each would face the fear of something slightly more extreme. She reluctantly/determinedly sought a skydive experience. Though I've always wanted to do that, I decided if I was ever going to jump from a 440ft ledge with a bunch of skinny rubber bands attached to my legs, it should be at the "birthplace of bungee". I was not nervous at all until the moment I paid and "made it real". On the bus out to the site, everyone around me got off at the 43 meter bridge stop. Shit. Where are you all going? Don't leave me! I never even considered doing the small one. "Go big or go home" seems reasonable when you're going to be spending a lot of money either way. Luckily three other brave souls stayed behind and we proceeded on to, at 134m, the highest bungee in Australasia. As I stepped out of the shuttle and viewed the insane canyon, I simply laughed.

By some miracle any anxiety barely registered (The kid after me though was shaking so bad he literally developed some sort of tick). I stepped to the ledge and leapt on count without hesitation. The plunge seemed instantaneous. I remember feeling extreme Gs, like 5x the first drop on the Timberwolf (KC roller coaster), and poetically uttering "holyyyy shiiiiiiiit"....and that's it. A bit dazed as they pulled me to the top, I strongly considered going again!

Tragically, my camera chose that afternoon to experience, as the camera store lady grimly diagnosed, a "fatal error". A Brazilian couple who kindly snapped a few photos for me seem to have lost my gmail. Grudgingly/thankfully, I purchased the steak dinner priced 3 minute video to prove I did it. Enjoy!

If that doesn't work, try this link:  http://www.ididit.co.nz/ididit/profile/19146?action=viewvideo&id=278934

I jinxed myself by criticizing my camera after the whale watch. Despite the unexpected blow to the old budget, I've now upgraded to 10x zoom, 16 megapixel, and panarama mode (which you all might tire of quickly!). My first chance to use it would be the next day on our bus trip to Milford Sound.

The driver looked like Ted Danson with a 60% smaller skull. He just kept talking the 3 hours down to Fiordland National Park. Dude, no shit, glaciers carved these lakes. And I can assure you I'm capable of finding a restroom. It was an early morning, I just wanted to glazedly stare out the window and listen to my This American Life podcast (Romney better not axe NPR right as I discover podcasts!). But finally he delivered us to our boat and we embarked on the Milford Sound cruise. Despite the bummer weather, this scenery topped all others in New Zealand, no simple feat. The sheer cliffs and copious mist-creating waterfalls created a very cool, Jurassic Parky atmosphere. Loved it.

These two took 3,256 pictures on the 2 hour cruise.

First and only wild penguin sighting!

The weather turned for the better my last full day in New Zealand. I wanted one last amazing hike and was directed towards Ben Lomond. At the start of the trail, a grizzled old man, possibly the land owner, eyed my shoes and gear (or lack thereof) and sort of hinted he doesn't approve of people ascending the mountain this time of year unprepared. "Oh no sir. I'm smarter than that. I'm just planning to aim for the saddle." While this was the truth at the time, once you get up there, the top looks mighty tempting, and I'm my father's son and approve a solid, in-over-your-head death hike now and then. I made it, but not without my legs seriously giving out every 200ft or so for the last half hour and sinking to my mid-thighs in a 50 yard snow patch you have to cross right near the top. But the view was worth it!

Queenstown's an amazing city. We probably caught it at a good time, the tail end of ski season, but before it gets rowdy/crowded for the summer. The people are friendly and energetic, the lakeside mountain setting is gorgeous, and Cookie Time has 2 for 1 happy hour every day! What more do you want? Served as the perfect finish to my 3 weeks in New Zealand.

Now it's time to brush off the hiking boots and get through Melbourne quarantine. There a few days, then train to Sydney for a warp tour before proceeding on to Brisbane. From there Ashley and I head up along the coast all the way to Cairns, then fly towards Uluru in the Outback. Will try to update my blog around the time I get to Cairns, 10/21 or so! No worries mates. Keep it real.